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Issue Date: June 2011

Street Smarts

Jamie Shearer

Wonder Bar chef Joe Bemer knew he needed a fresh hook if his food was going to stand out on a street that counts Lola, Greenhouse Tavern and Chinato among its residents. "To me, it was obvious that the place should have upscale food," he says. "You're on East Fourth. How could you not?" That meant replacing Wonder Bar's ho-hum pizzas with a four-course approach and a sex-themed menu to capture the lively vibe of the neighborhood. For example, his roasted red beet and pickled red onion dish with goat cheese and savory pistachio vinaigrette is called Aphrodisiac ($7). The rest of the menu follows suit: Mile High Club chicken paprikash, The Lei barbecue pulled pork and Free Love pistachio-crusted tofu. "It's not Italian, not Asian, not French," Bemer says. "I just want people to try different things."
2044 E. Fourth St., Cleveland, 216-298-4050,

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