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Issue Date: July 2013

Split Decision

Kim Schneider

Barroco Grill // Amid the rush to find something fast and filling during the lunch hour, we also want more than just your run-of-the-deli turkey sandwich. That's why we were thrilled when Lakewood's popular Barroco Grill, a South American restaurant known for its arepas (thick corn tortillas that are grilled before being split and stuffed with various fillings), opened a Warehouse District spot in March. Worth the walk (or ride on the trolley), the space is a more casual version of its suburban counterpart. Though there's limited seating inside, you'll want to grab a table to dig right into the menu of arepas, bowls, salads and sandwiches. The steak arepa ($7.91), loaded with roasted corn, aji salsa (a mild pico de gallo), cheese and lettuce, gets elevated in flavor thanks to the addition of bacon bits and sweet plantains. Don't overlook the house-made tableside sauces in squeeze bottles, such as chimichurri, pineappple, ranchero and spicy peanut. Each lets diners customize their experience, so every bite packs a tasty punch. If the arepas don't fill you up, be sure to order the cheesy corn ($8) — a twist on queso dip. Served with house-made tortilla chips on the side, it's packed with chicken, bacon and loads of cheese for a melty combo that keeps us heading back for more.

Barroco Grill, 1303 W. Sixth St., Cleveland, 216-589-0300,

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