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Issue Date: March 2009

Fish Fries - The Baricelli Inn

Erick Trickey
The Baricelli Inn’s Lenten fish special is the fanciest in town. It’s not even a fish fry — it’s a fish sauté. The prix fixe menu ($30) includes a choice of sautéed rainbow trout or sautéed skate. It starts with a choice of salad, minestrone or New England clam chowder and ends with either crème brulee or a trio of sorbets.

The Barcelli is in a former mansion. It has a modern lobby and small dining rooms with a historic, refined feel (a tiled fireplace decorated our room). Music played so faintly in the background we could just barely pick out the notes.

The fish comes with roasted Yukon potatoes and (very) savory spinach cooked with garlic and shallots. The salmon and trout were strongly spiced, complementing but not overwhelming their natural tastes. Both were well prepared: The trout was tender but didn’t flake, and the salmon came medium to medium-rare, with a darker pink center. The portions were relatively small, but the meal filled us up as well as a church-basement dinner would have. 2203 Cornell Road, Cleveland, (216) 791-6500; Fridays during Lent, 5 to 10:30 p.m.; $30

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