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Issue Date: May 2009


Silver Spoons: The Protein Scene

The next time you dine out, locavores and carnivores alike can relax and order that 16-ounce rib eye or stuffed pork chop. Area chefs have got your back (mmm ... baby back ribs). They’ve been on the buy-local bandwagon for years, serving up all kinds of meaty entrées hailing from less than 100 miles around.
THE CHEF THE SOURCE LOCAL FLAVOR ON THE MENU
Jonathon Sawyer

The Greenhouse Tavern

2038 E. Fourth St., Cleveland (216) 393-4302
Lamb & Baby Goat

Lucky Penny

7273 Hankee Road, Garrettsville (330) 527-0548

Goatfeathers Point Farm

4570 Akron-Peninsula
Road, Peninsula
(330) 815-0094
“I believe Ohio produces the best lamb and baby goat in the country. Goatfeathers has six pastures. They allow the grass to get long enough for the goats to healthily feed on it and then rotate them from pasture to pasture. Lucky Penny and The Greenhouse Tavern have a symbiotic relationship. They are a goat milk farm and only use a certain number of males for the herd. So whenever they have a surplus of males, they call us.”
Chevre salad topped with Ohio goat confit, herbs and sheep’s milk cheese. “ With little roasted baby goat, the salad’s extremely delicate. I love it for the simplicity and the sweetness of the baby goat.”
Karen Small

Flying Fig

2523 Market Ave., Cleveland (216) 241-4243


Pork

Dee-Jay’s Custom Butchering and Processing 17460 Ankneytown Road, Fredericktown (740) 694-7492
“He processes only Ohio pigs, so you know where your meat is coming from. He takes great pride in his work. The pigs are honestly butchered and raised. I’ve been working with him for a year. We met through Parker Bosley. For the longest time, you’d have to drive down there, which Parker always did. But now he does a delivery once a week.”
Maple-glazed grilled pork tenderloin with a pork trotter cake, cauliflower gratin and roasted apple reduction. “Getting my meat locally definitely makes a difference in flavor because of the way these pigs are being raised. ... They’re seeing a lot of grass. And they’re processed very humanely.”
Paul Minnillo

The Baricelli Inn
2203 Cornell Road, Cleveland (216) 791-6500
Beef, Lamb & Pork

Mr. Brisket
2156 S. Taylor Road, Cleveland Heights (216) 932-8620
“Mr. Brisket has this little dive store on Taylor Road. I’ve been working with him for 20 years. I actually think it was Zack Bruell who turned me on to him. I’ve always liked his quality; he brings only prime in. He’s easy to work with and always honest. He’s not inexpensive, but you get what you pay for.”
16-ounce grilled rib eye with cheesy fries. “We just grill it. It’s simple and prime. We’re doing some wonderful stuff with beef right now. I’m real happy with the meat we get.”
Eric Williams

Momocho

1835 Fulton Road, Cleveland (216) 694-2122
Pork, Chicken & Lamb

Tend-R-Lean Steak Co.

7106 Lorain Ave., Cleveland (216) 961-3435
(also sells at the West Side Market)

“The owner, Marty, is a small, local butcher who supplies premium products at reasonable prices — two characteristics most chefs look for in a purveyor. He comes into the restaurant to teach us how to butcher large, whole cuts of beef and pork, and we break them down ourselves. This saves us money and also educates the staff.”

Adobo-rubbed and grilled pork chop topped with Oaxacan red chile and chocolate mole and served with a side of smoked Gouda tamale dumplings. “  The chop has slowly crept up to the No. 2 entrée on the menu, second to the scallops.”

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