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Issue Date: May 2007 Issue


Silver Spoons: We’ve taken beef short ribs to new heights.


Laura Taxel
editorial@clevelandmagazine.com
So there I was, sitting down to my third dinner of the evening. Forking up big bites of tender short ribs at 9:30 p.m., I thought, Either mine is the best job in the world (I get paid to do this!) or the worst (I am doomed to grow very, very fat). Conundrums like this are best pondered with a glass of wine close at hand. After a sip of my Norman No Nonsense Meritage, a California red, and another forkful of fall-off-the-bone, slow cooked meat, I concluded that being thin is overrated. And beef short ribs have been underappreciated for far too long. Once considered humble food — inexpensive, fatty, tough and suitable for steerage class — beef short ribs have become a top hog on restaurant menus. They invoke homey comfort foods and adapt to all sorts of seasonings, offering chefs a chance to show off. Anybody can make a filet mignon taste good. But it takes skill (and time) to transform this stuff. Here are five of our favorites.
 

Restaurant

Dish

Side

Why We Love It

Price

Three Birds
18515 Detroit Ave.,
Lakewood, (216) 221-3500
Chef: Rachel Spieth
Braised short ribs Caramelized onion mashed potatoes and spicy kale The fork-tender meat is dressed in classic stock-based reduction sauce made with red wine and tomatoes. $23.
 Fahrenheit
2417 Professor Ave.,
Cleveland, (216) 781-8858
Chef: Rocco Whalen
Snake River Farms Kobe short ribs Baby bok choy and teriyaki lo mein noodles The meat’s from a breed of pampered steers, so the texture is pure satin. They’re seasoned and sided with a nod to Chinese tradition, but the result is completely original. $27
The Flying Fig
2523 Market Ave.,
Cleveland, (216) 241-4243
Chef: Karen Small
Grilled short rib small plate Sauteed broccolini Dark spicy hoisin glaze gives the velvety meat a touch of sweetness, while sea salt and garlic add extra zip. $9.
Grovewood Tavern
17105 Grovewood Ave.,
Cleveland, (216) 531-4900
Chef: Brandon Kercher
Zinfandel short ribs Barley risotto and gremolata (a garnish of parsley, lemon peel and garlic) Black Angus beef braised in wine has the texture of a perfect pot roast. In a kalamata olive oil and dried cherry sauce that adds a nice fruit note echoing the grapiness of the Zin. $18.75
Gavi’s Restaurant
38257 Glenn Ave.
Willoughby, (440) 942-8008
Chef: Ron Romanini
Fettucine con Coste di Maiale Mesclun green salad Who knew short ribs belonged in pasta? The tender pieces, combined with hot sausage and the al dente fettucine, mix comfort food with class.  $21.95
   

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