Have you ever gone to a party and stumbled upon a kindred spirit — someone you can talk to for hours who loves all the same things you do and shares your most heartfelt opinions? It’s an encounter that is both unexpected and wonderful.
Dining at Crop Bistro & Bar, chef Steve Schimoler’s new restaurant in the Warehouse District, was just that sort of experience: He and I are on the same culinary wavelength. His creations are smart, taking advantage of technique and technology to get the most out every ingredient. He’s familiar with sous vide cooking, foams and gastriques, yet he doesn’t seed his small, seasonal menu with such intimidating haute terms.
Dishes are nuanced, seasoning is subtle. Instead of grabbing your palate in a bear hug, flavors bloom in the mouth. The kitchen’s efforts come across as uncomplicated, straightforward and unpretentious, while still involving numerous elements and intricate preparation.
And Schimoler serves it all in an informal atmosphere. The wait staff wears T-shirts and the customers can too. It’s like finding a new best friend.