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Issue Date: May 2012

Hip Spot

Jim Vickers

The Hipp // Chef Jae Stulock's Umami Moto food truck hasn't stopped rolling, but mobile eats aren't all he's up to these days. His new restaurant inside the Agora Theatre complex is a large, mostly unadorned space with plenty of seating and an enormous historical photo of the Hippodrome — a theater once located at 720 Euclid Ave. — on the far wall. Visitors are greeted by the menu on a large chalkboard, and you place your order at a counter. The simplicity in decor and concept is contrasted by an inventive menu of burgers, sandwiches (incuding vegetarian options) and comfort classics such as meatloaf and ramen. If you don't opt to BYOB (build your own burger), the Parma Burger ($9), topped with a house-made sauerkraut-and-potato-stuffed pieorgi, grilled onions and cheese sauce, is a tasty and filling option. We also liked the grilled chicken wrap ($8), which was elevated by Brie, pear and garlic aioli alongside the standard bacon and lettuce. One bit of advice: Spring for the side of fries ($2). Our side of chips, which come with most orders, appeared to be from a bag. It's a lone and forgivable gripe for a place that is doing tasty and inventive food, whether you want to build a monster burger or eat meat-free.

The Hipp, 5000 Euclid Ave., Cleveland, 216-361-9700

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