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Issue Date: October 2008

The Best of Cleveland - French Fries

Scott Kim, the genial proprietor ofSASA on Shaker Square, tacked his french fries onto the menu to satiate the nibblings of the bar crowd. But he has no problem with the fact that the simple side dish has turned into one of his biggest sellers. After all, he says, who doesn’t love a deep-fried potato? We won’t argue, but we must elaborate on Kim’s behalf. There are fried potatoes, and then there’s the SASA fry, which blows other starches out of the water. The dish arrives in an edible wonton wrapper perched atop a bamboo steamer. Two types of seaweed grace these fries: ao-nori — a sesame-flavored, roasted seaweed powder — and kizami — a thin strip of dark seaweed. The greens give the crispy fries oomph and an extra crackle. In the center, Kim’s managed to maintain the light, airy taste and texture of a baked potato. A side of katsu dip offers a tasty barbecue sauce-ketchup hybrid. You don’t even need salt and pepper.13120 Shaker Square, Cleveland; (216) 767-1111;

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