Best of Cleveland 2017: Fettuccine

Don’t tell Nonna, but we have a new favorite pasta dish.

Since Nora opened in Little Italy two years ago, the fettuccine ($22) — roasted garlic-pancetta carbonara cream sauce with house-made spaghetti noodles — has been a constant on the limited, shifting menu.

“Selfishly, I’d like to take it off because we pride ourselves on a menu that changes with the seasons,” says chef and owner Eddie Zalar. “But our regulars say, ‘No, you have to keep that one!’ ”

Although the chef riffs with garnishes such as celery hearts or fresh dill, the matchstick potatoes — a masterful display of starch-on-starch done right — and the creamy-when-broken poached egg keeps us intrigued.

Still, the dish’s climax is the savory salt-cured egg yolk.

“It gives it a slight umami flavor,” says Zalar. “We try to hit every sense on your palate — sweet, salty, sour.” And since Nora now offers half-servings ($14), you’ll find us ordering the entire menu. “This is definitely a dish that sticks to your ribs, so the half portion lets you sample three or four pastas.” 2181 Murray Hill Road, Cleveland, 216-231-5977, noracleveland.com